Campbell River

June 30 ~ July 2

The northern coast of Vancouver Island is mostly about big deal fishing.  We weren't planning on doing that, but wanted to see some parts off the normal path.  Campbell River is its gateway. We're staying at Salmon Point Marina Resort (salmonpoint.com). And it’s Canada Day weekend – equivalent to our July 4th – and the place is packed with families and dogs…..that’s the bad news….the good news is we got a front row ocean view spot. There’s also a pretty good restaurant on site. Had to have salmon in the Salmon Capitol of the World.

This weekend is “Transformation on the Shore” (Campbell River Shoreline Arts) which turned out to be the highlight of our visit to Campbell River. It is a cedar log carving competition that is in its 14th year. We visited every day, sometimes twice a day, to see the progress. It was fascinating and truly a demonstration of an artistic craft rarely seen.. They start with a log about six feet high and maybe two feet across. Then they start hacking away…..chain saws, axes, chisels and saws fill the park with a deafening noise. There are categories ranging from professional to novice and at the end of the four-day competition $12,000 in prize money will be awarded. Can’t believe how much we get into this. Unfortunately we are leaving Campbell River before the end, but we followed them most of the way through the process. Here's some of our favorites in the making.

The Campbell River Museum (crmuseum.ca) is a wonderful surprise. It features truly fabulous exhibits on the history of the area from the First Nations aboriginal tribes through its role in the 18th century logging and fishing industries. We’re thrilled to find a museum of this caliber in this small little town.



Canada Day in Campbell River is full of activities. The resort kicks the day off with a pancake breakfast in the clubhouse that Rick has to drag me to, but it turned out great. Two pancakes, two eggs, sausages, juice and coffee is $5…I get half of that for half the price.



The parade in town is of the neighborhood variety…cute with every club, scout troop, team and civil servant strutting their stuff. The antique fire engine didn’t work out too well though.

The fireworks do not start until 10:22! It is 5p.m. with really nothing left to do and it’s a half hour back to Tor then back to town again later. We sadly decide, though fireworks are near the top of all time favs, we will forgo them….we are asleep long before they start.

Three full days is a long time in Campbell River. Fortunately found a terrific inn, Painter’s Lodge (painterslodge.com), which is primarily for fishing, hoping Rick would go out on a trip….didn’t work out, but we had a nice lunch on a beautiful day.

And, of course, back again for one last look at the carvings. Really want to know who wins…later we found this list of the winners. Click the link by the names of each contestant to see the transformation from log to finished art.

We've been caught in a buffalo jam, a donkey jam and a mule deer jam, but I would sincerely like to know who has ever been caught in a naked alpaca jam!?! 



The weirdest thing about this little jaunt up the coast to the Salmon Capitol of the World, is we can’t find a decent fish market! The hinterlands have been interesting, but can’t wait to get to a little civilization in Victoria tomorrow.

Vancouver Island ~ Central Coast ~ Part 2

June 28 ~ 29

Today, I will wear white!  The sun is out, the temperature is supposed to climb and it might actually feel like summer has finally arrived.  I'm so excited to pull out the white clothes I've toted about for the last eight months longing for summer. However, once again we fall victim to the meterologist's bait and switch!  When we get going on our outing, the temperature drops, the sun departs and the spattering rain begins.  Luckily, after this much time in the Northwest, we know what you see isn't always what you get weatherwise.  We never go anywhere without at least two more layers of clothing stowed in the car.

Cathedral Grove in Macmillan Provincial Park (vancouverisland.com/parks) is a walk into Jurassaic Park.  The 743 acre stand of towering Douglas-fir and Cedar trees convince you, you are in a world unto its own....and in a way you are.  The oldest and tallest of these is 800 years old and 250 feet tall. 

There are tree hollows large enough to hold an entire family.

The trails lead through a world of nature at her best and her cruelest.  The trees, ferns, wild flowers and streams are beautiful and soothing.

The hundreds of toppled trunks and limbs that have closed many trails are the result of a massive 1997 storm which is said to have changed the look of the park forever.  The bad news is that it took out so many wonderful specimens....the good news is that it opened up the canopy to allow sunlight into the forest bringing new growth. We were so glad to have seen this extraordinary place.

Next stop on today's jaunt is the Little Qualicum Falls. This proved pleasant, but not extraordinary.  The hike to the two sets of falls is relatively steep....glad I brought tennis shoes so I could change out of my sandals.

Goats on the roof!  It's really not to be believed. Coombs Country Market (oldcountrymarket.com) began in 1971 as a small produce stand. The originator was from Norway and it is said he longed to see a grass roof like those in his country.  It is also said that once he got the grass growing, a few glasses of wine inspired the idea of putting goats up there!  It is a hoot, but I find it hard to believe that PETA is all over it.

They are atop a now extensive building that houses a rather odd combination of goods.  Kind of like a Trader Joe's mets Pier One with a restaurant thrown in.  The fresh breads look glorious but are better looking than they are tasting.

The best part is an out building of wonderful fresh produce at terrific prices. We stocked up.

We've had a terrific time in Parksville.  Tomorrow we'll head further up island to the gateway of the North Coast.  Campbell River is called the Salmon Capitol of the World.  Looking forward to some good eating.

Vancouver Island ~ Central Coast

June 24 ~ 27

Getting on the ferry from Horseshoe Bay took a lot longer than we  planned.  Not because of getting Tor on the boat, but because we were the first people in the ferry line not to make the 12:30 sailing!  Had to wait another 2 1/2 hours for the next boat.  Think it was so crowded because BC

Ferries has instituted a mid-week fare on Tuesdays, Wednesdays and Thursdays, the significantly discounted price is especially worthwhile if your paying for a vehicle the length of Tor.  Fortunately there's a little village right next to the terminal that had a good restaurant on the water, called the BoatHouse and pretty views around the wharf that filled the time nicely.

Got Tor loaded in a good position, since we were the first on. 

We layered up on the clothing because we thought it would be cold on the water.  But the sun came out and it turned out to be a wonderful just under two hour trip.

Disembark at Nanaimo/Departure Bay and drive about 25 minutes to Parksville which is supposed to have beautiful beaches and the warmest water on the island.  Arrive Surfside RV Resort (surfside.bc.ca) and at first were kind of taken aback because it is almost entirely park model permanent summer residences. Turned out we loved it....magnificent view, lovely clubhouse facilities with a good exchange library, very nice neighbors and beachwalks and shell hunting galore.

There are very few ocean sites that are rentable to travelers.  We felt very fortunate to secure this location with the ocean on one side and a mountain view from the other.

The first evening brings a gorgeous sunset.

The weather during the next few days is still not cooperating, however we walk the rocky beach everyday at low tide when it's possible to go out at least a half mile.  We accumulate so many shells that I know will make the coolest salt cellars, appetizer plates and jewelry.  Of course, we also did this in the Bay of Fundy and have never done anything with them, but it's fun. And the water is really pretty warm.

We come across a starfish just barely in the water.  Never have seen a purple one, but later learn they are by far the most common.

The best news came on the beach when Kelly called to give us the good news Chip's next post will be at the War College in Newport, Rhode Island, a wonderful opportunity for him and a pretty great location for the whole family. We talked forever..not a good thing at these international rates, but who cares!

Then we discover the bald eagles....how very grand! Have never seen one in the wild...apparently they hang out on this beach all the time.  Rick shoots some amazing photos.  This one is particularly spectacular.  Seems crows have some issues with the eagles and they keep dive bombing them.  Can't believe the eagle just doesn't take him out!

Take a drive to Nanaimo, the second largest city on the island after Victoria. They seemed to have spent an enormous amount of money attempting to create a vibrant waterfront.  Don't know if it's economically viable, there's hardly anyone around.  We do have a nice walk and discover a very unusual sight, at least to us.  The tide is out and the starfish, mostly purple ones, are hanging from the pier and piled up everywhere.  This is one of the prettier sights with the sea anomenes...the piles of purple blobs were actually pretty gross.

And we find Dr. Seuss flowers live in Canada too!

Found a great seafood market in Parksville at the wharf called French Creek Seafood (frenchcreekseafood.com).  Looks pretty groddy as the best ones always do with the requisite wreck of an old boat at the entrance.

They have the spot prawns we discovered on Granville Island and at a far better price.  Today is the last day of the prawn season so we are so glad we came today.  We've made them two ways; shelled and sauteed in butter, oil, wine and garlic which was amazing and Rick found a recipe for an oil, basil, garlic marinade that when coated for awhile then tossed on the grill was simply fantastic.  These prawns are reminscent of the Ridgebacks we found in Santa Barbara (though far more expensive)...both have that rich, lobster taste.  Would even buy these frozen if we can find them.....they are that good!

The weather is not only not cooperating, it is truly odd.  The days are cloudy and windy....about 4 or 5 o'clock, the sun comes out and it's glorious.  And, by the way, it's not really dark until about 10:30 and dawn is before 5.  A whole lot of daylight...wish there was some sunlight to go with it.