It's our ninth anniversary and there's to be nothing but fun today. We're going to keep it casual today though, since tomorrow's Thanksgiving and we're eating at highly acclaimed, fancy restaurant. Brunch is at the very popular, just off the plaza, Cafe Pasqual (pasquals.com), a former James Beard Southwest Award winner.. We tried to get in on Sunday and it was mobbed...we're hoping Wednesday morning isn't as bad. Only had to wait about 10 minutes and get a great table. It's a fun place decorated with Southwestern art and our waiter, Bill, must have a second life as a very dry-witted stand-up comic.
Mimosas are the order of the day...mine pomegranite, which is great. Rick devours his Durango Omlette, filled with ham, Jack cheese, scallions, guac, sour cream, mushrooms and topped with red and green chile sauce (known locally as Christmas). He is one happy camper! My Huevos Rancheros would be wonderful if you happen to like cilantro....I cannot abide it, so unfortunatelly, I just pick at the eggs.
The Cathedral Basillica of St. Francis of Assisi (cbsfa.org) is spectacular. As we were taking it all in, a woman came up to us and began giving us an amazingly interesting backstory on everything.
The current Church itself was not built until the late 1800's, featuring a two-story carved altar piece. It's very striking but our "guide" says it's not all that old has been renovated repeatedly and directs our attention to the small, side La Conquistadora Chapel which was built about 1620 and dedicated to the Virgin Mary.
Our Lady of Peace, a statute carried from Mexico to Santa Fe in 1625, is the center of the elaborately carved altar piece. The figure of Christ beneath her looks rather evil to me. Our new friend says everybody says that, "but it's folk-art, like a Valentine your child makes for you. You have to love it." A current parishoner makes Our Lady's dresses and the one pictured is made of the woman's wedding dress.
We learn that many of 2,000 parishoners take a very active part in the upkeep and decoration of the Church. The Stations of the Cross have been painted by another member. We are so glad that this woman, for whatever reason, chose to stop and talk to us.
From the Cathedral, we walk to the Loretto Chapel, (lorettochapel.com) which houses the "Miraculous Staircase." Everyone tells us we have to see this.
The church built in the 1870's had a huge design flaw...no way to get to the choir loft. Legend has it that the nuns that ran the church prayed for an answer. It is said a mysterious carpenter arrived and built a circular staircase with just a saw, a square, a hammer and tubs to soak the wood. It has 33 steps in two 360 degree turns without center or side support, nor nails . The carpenter left as mysteriously as he came without seeking any payment. Railings and a side support have subsequently been installed. It's pretty, but we find the whole thing rather crass. The chapel is now privately owned and is used only for weddings and other events. The gift shop is much larger than the church and it's attached to to hotel. While the admission (which real churches never have) is only $3, we were mad at ourselves for doing it.
We decide to go to a funky place for an anniversary dinner...the Cowgirl Bar and Grille (cowgirlsantafe.com) This place is down and dirty and fun! I had to have something called a Frito Pie. What this is, believe it or not, is a small bag of fritos, slit open and laid, bag and all in a bowl, topped with chili and served with sour cream, onions, jalepenos and jack and cheddar cheese. It is divine! And the margaritas the best I've ever tasted. Rick loves his chili rellenos. Our intention is to stay until the music starts at 9. We can't make it that late to start partying! Pathetic, but true!
Thanksgiving Day
We both choose the traditional turkey dinner with Spanish chorizo stuffing, root vegetables, mashed potatoes, carmelized onion giblet gravy and cranberry relish. Rick starts with diver scallops and I have what is described as a potato/leek soup with a warmed salad. What it turns out to be is a warmed potato and greens salad presented in the middle of a large bowl. The waiter then pours the soup over the salad from a beautiful copper vessel. Both appetizers are beautiful, elegant and marvelous.
Over the starters, we are bemoaning the fact we won't get any turkey sandwiches this year. Well, we're served such ample portions of turkey, we're able to take enough back with us for multiple sandwiches. Everything on the plate is picture and taste perfect! We're stuffed and choose to share an apple tart with ice cream and carmel sauce. It is too good for words! We ask that maple bourbon pecan pie be packed up for another day.
We miss being home for Thanksgiving, but couldn't have chosen a better restaurant to spend the holiday.
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