O'Keefe & Taos

November 21~22

After viewing a striking sunrise, our full attention on Sunday morning is devoted to the New York Times and the political talk shows.  We've been running around so much, we just needed to fix a late breakfast and breath a little.



But enough of that!  We go to the Georgia O'Keeffe Museum (okeeffemuseum.org), which unfortunately allows no photographs. The  new exhibit, "New Mexico and New York," gives a vivid insight into her life, her loves and is integrated with photographs done by  her  husband, Alfred Stieglitz and friend, Ansel Adams.  The introductory visitor's film is excellent, with interviews with O'Keeffe not long before she dies.  I like her paintings, but I love her words....that girl had spunk! Rick is feeling inspired to pick up his brushes again.

Taos

Our day-trip to Taos dawns sunny, windy and really cold.  By the time we leave it has just broken the 20 degree mark and we really don't have the right clothes for this.  We layer and layer and layer. We're still freezing.

We've been advised by many people and guide books to take "the High Road" to Taos, which, of course, we find ironic....we see a few pretty vistas and a gallery we find amusing, but mostly there is very little to see and this route takes an hour longer.  We must be philistines....we don't get it. We plan on taking the "Low Road"   on the way back.

We plan to go to the Taos Pueblo (taospueblo.com) first, then to the heart of town.  The Pueblo is the largest and oldest of the eight in the area.  It was built over 1,000 years ago and is considered the oldest continually inhabited community in the country.  Forty families live here today, a fact we find simply stunning.

Speaking to some of the villagers, we learn that repairs are done regularly, but the Pueblo essentially remains unchanged except for the introduction of doors.  The original residents accessed their homes by ladders through holes in the roof.  Since it is also so cold, we learn the value of the thick adobe walls that catch and hold the heat of the sun.

The village is separated in half by the Red River Creek and is crossed by wooden foot bridges made of huge logs.  The river is still the only source of water and is carried by pottery or pails to the homes.


Shops that have been set up in some of the adobe homes are marked for visitors.  Some of the interiors have been floored with linoleum, others remain dirt.  But one thing is constant, the wonderfully efficient fireplaces that provide the only heat.

The Saint Geronimo Chapel, built in 1850 is one of the newest buildings on site and is a Registered National Historic Landmark.  It is simple and stunning.  The stark white accents against the reddish adobe walls set it apart from everything else in the village. Sky blue stained glass windows  add grace to the the long, hard expanse of adobe.

The interior, which is not allowed to be photographed, is intimate, featuring carved wood ceiling beams.  The Santos, or Virgin Mary, is the dominate decorative figure.

The burial ground is on the site of the original Saint Geronimo Chapel built in 1619 by Spanish priests with Indian labor that were forced into slavery and Catholicism.  It remains in use today.

Leaving the Pueblo, we have a late lunch at the Adobe Bar in the Taos Inn (taosinn.com).  It is the perfect after-ski or after-touring place...big fireplace and good food...very comfy. My chicken burrito is great, as is Rick's taco platter.

Roam the Plaza, which is not as chic as the one in Santa Fe, but find a couple of cute Christmas gifts, then to the Rio Grande Gorge Bridge.  This structure, built in 1965 hovers 650 feet above the river and spans 2000 feet.  It's hard to see the majesty of it all, but the aerial photos we've seen in books are quite amazing.

We take the "Low Road" back and are so glad we did!  I would advise if you take this trip to take the Low Road both ways.  It hugs the Rio Grande and is gorgeous both ways for quite a bit of the trip back to Santa Fe. We catch the last fading glances of the sunset.

It was a great and very long day.  Can see a down day in our future tomorrow!